Oamaru

The town that did something unexpected

Oamaru is a mid-sized South Island town with a Victorian limestone streetscape and, for several decades, a fading economy. What happened next is genuinely interesting: rather than redeveloping the Victorian Precinct into generic commercial space, the town embraced it. The result is one of New Zealand’s most architecturally distinctive small towns, with its Italianate limestone buildings now housing independent boutiques, galleries, cafes, and — most improbably — the world’s first permanent Steampunk headquarters.

The other notable thing about Oamaru is the little blue penguin colony. The Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony is the most accessible and well-managed penguin viewing site in New Zealand. Each evening, as dusk falls, a steady stream of little blue penguins (the world’s smallest penguin species, standing 30 cm tall) emerges from the sea to waddle through the colony to their nest burrows. The grandstand seating gives a structured viewing experience; the penguins are entirely oblivious to the audience.

What to do in Oamaru

Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony: The evening parade, which typically begins at or slightly after dusk (check the colony website for the day’s predicted arrival time, which varies seasonally), runs for 1–2 hours. Grandstand seating is the standard option — bleacher-style seating alongside the colony access path. Premium seating is more expensive but gives better proximity. The Oamaru: Blue Penguin Colony Evening Viewing Ticket covers grandstand access; NZD 35–50 / USD 21–30 / EUR 19–28 adults. Premium viewing (front row, designated area) NZD 50–70 / USD 30–42 / EUR 28–39. Children under 5 free. No photography with flash permitted.

Victorian Precinct: A cluster of Italianate limestone buildings from the 1880s–1900s concentrated in the Harbour and Tees Street area, now comprising independent boutiques, a Saturday steampunk market, craft studios, an old-fashioned penny-farthing bicycle hire, and Criterion Hotel (one of the oldest licensed premises in New Zealand). Walkable in 30–45 minutes; free to explore.

Steampunk HQ: An art installation, interactive gallery, and philosophical statement about technology, nostalgia, and retrofuturism. The permanent collection of mechanical sculpture and repurposed industrial equipment is genuinely creative. Entry NZD 12 / USD 7 / EUR 6.50. Located in the Harbour Street precinct.

Moeraki Boulders: Located 40 km south on the coastal highway, the Moeraki Boulders are a collection of spherical grey boulders on a beach, formed by concretion over 60 million years and gradually revealed as the mudstone cliffs erode. They are Maori taonga (treasures) with a traditional name (Te Kaihinaki). The DOC viewing area has a short beach walk; DOC fee NZD 5 / USD 3 / EUR 2.75. Best visited at low tide. The Fleur’s Place seafood restaurant nearby is one of the best seafood restaurants in the South Island.

Dunedin to Oamaru via the Catlins tour: For those who want a guided connection from Dunedin, the Moeraki Boulders and North Otago Wildlife tour from Dunedin combines Moeraki and Oamaru area wildlife in a day tour from Dunedin; NZD 130–165 / USD 78–99 / EUR 72–91.

Yellow-eyed penguin: In addition to the little blues, Oamaru has a small yellow-eyed penguin colony at the Bushy Beach Reserve, 2 km from the town centre. A DOC hide provides viewing without disturbing the penguins. Viewing in the late afternoon (penguins return from the sea between 4pm and 7pm depending on season). Free.

Whitestone cheese: The Whitestone Cheese Factory is located in the Victorian Precinct and produces some of New Zealand’s best artisan cheeses, including an excellent aged gouda and blue varieties. Tours available; cheese sales from the factory shop. Free entry.

Where to stay in Oamaru

Brydone Hotel: Heritage hotel in the Victorian Precinct, built 1881. Mid-range; atmospheric. NZD 140–200 / USD 84–120 / EUR 77–110.

Highfield Mews: Self-contained cottage accommodation; quiet suburban setting. NZD 120–170 / USD 72–102 / EUR 66–94.

Oamaru TOP 10 Holiday Park: Standard facilities; walking distance to the penguin colony. Power sites NZD 40–55 / USD 24–33 / EUR 22–30.

Most travellers stay one night in Oamaru as a break between Christchurch and Dunedin, or as part of a Dunedin day trip.

What to eat and drink

Fleur’s Place, Moeraki: Technically at Moeraki (40 km south) but meriting special mention — the best seafood restaurant between Christchurch and Dunedin. Local crayfish, blue cod, and whitebait on a seasonal menu in a converted fishing jetty building. Reserve ahead. Mains NZD 32–52 / USD 19–31 / EUR 17–29.

Harbour St Bakery: The best cafe in the Victorian Precinct — excellent coffee and cabinet food. Open from 7am. NZD 8–18 / USD 4.80–11 / EUR 4.40–10.

The Loan and Mercantile: In the Victorian Precinct; good for lunch and a glass of Central Otago Pinot Noir. Mains NZD 22–34 / USD 13–20 / EUR 12–19.

Whitestone Cheese: Cheese board and cider in the factory shop — NZD 15–25 / USD 9–15 / EUR 8–14.

Skip / worth it / splurge

• Skip: Oamaru if you are doing the yellow-eyed penguin at Otago Peninsula (Dunedin) and the little blues at Akaroa — see them once, they are all genuinely good; but penguins throughout the South Island is repetitive
• Worth it: Blue penguin colony (NZD 35–50 / USD 21–30 / EUR 19–28) — the accessibility and consistency makes this the best value penguin experience in New Zealand
• Worth it: Moeraki Boulders detour (30 minutes each way, NZD 5 DOC fee) — genuinely strange geology worth seeing
• Splurge: Dinner at Fleur’s Place, Moeraki (NZD 80–130 / USD 48–78 / EUR 44–72 per person with wine) — one of the best seafood restaurants in the South Island

How to fit Oamaru into your itinerary

Oamaru sits on the main SH1 between Christchurch (250 km) and Dunedin (120 km), making it the natural midpoint for that journey. Arrival in the afternoon, blue penguin colony in the evening, overnight, and continue to Dunedin the following morning.

For those connecting from Lake Tekapo or Mount Cook, the route via Oamaru adds about 40 minutes compared to the Dunedin direct route but includes the Moeraki Boulders.

On a 21-day New Zealand itinerary that includes the Catlins, Oamaru is best placed as the last overnight before the drive to Dunedin and the Catlins.

Frequently asked questions about Oamaru

What time do the penguins come ashore?

The arrival time varies by season. In midsummer (December-January), penguins arrive at dusk — around 9pm. In midwinter (June-July), they arrive much earlier, as early as 5pm. The Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony website posts the predicted arrival time for each day based on the date and weather. Build 30 minutes of buffer either side.

Are the little blue penguins wild?

Yes. The colony is a wild, free-ranging population that has chosen to nest in the reserve. The management protects the burrows, controls predators, and provides nest boxes, but the penguins are not captive or fed by humans.

What is the Steampunk HQ?

A permanent art installation and gallery dedicated to Steampunk — the aesthetic and cultural movement that combines Victorian industrial design with speculative retro-futurist technology. Oamaru was adopted as a Steampunk capital somewhat accidentally (local artists began working in the style and the Victorian Precinct became an ideal backdrop) and has leaned into the identity enthusiastically. The annual Steampunk NZ Festival is held in May.